Olympus OM-D E-M5 retro (best mirrorless camera of 2012)

Terrible AF, low res screen, other than that, it's perfect, E-P3 fixed all the problem

ah all fixed now then. If you do not like slow AF. pls dun consider fuji x -pro 1. maybe there is a M5 in your life too.
 
ah all fixed now then. If you do not like slow AF. pls dun consider fuji x -pro 1. maybe there is a M5 in your life too.

Did you compare the pics of both cameras? I feel xpro colors seems better, so I dun mind slower AF, they have good lenses. if let me choose M5 and E-P3, I rather get the latter.
 
Did you compare the pics of both cameras? I feel xpro colors seems better, so I dun mind slower AF, they have good lenses. if let me choose M5 and E-P3, I rather get the latter.

it is unfair to compare zoom with prime. IQ is better on fujifilm, that is for sure. If you want to go with x-pro 1, sure. But it is larger and more expensive.

E-P3, no - with no tilt screen , i cannot shoot at the hips , that mean M5 is better.
 
it is unfair to compare zoom with prime. IQ is better on fujifilm, that is for sure. If you want to go with x-pro 1, sure. But it is larger and more expensive.

E-P3, no - with no tilt screen , i cannot shoot at the hips , that mean M5 is better.
Got EVF 2 what? Dumbass.....
 
I go find the comparison of these 2 cameras, Kai got compare them or not?
 
tilt screen is for shooting at the hip, nothing to do with EVF

EVF 2 also can shoot from the hip up, you just need to bend a bit, lol. Anyway, I dun like tilt screen, it makes the camera very fragile. But your choice lah..
 
Did you compare the pics of both cameras? I feel xpro colors seems better,

If you're shooting jpegs, the colour depends pretty much on your menu settings where you can adjust just about everything.

I've got into the habit of shooting RAW simply because I can recover a lot more details should the exposure or white balance need correcting on a computer. This also means that the colours look like shit until I run the default recipe for saturation, sharpening and colour temp in batch mode in my raw converter.
 
If you're shooting jpegs, the colour depends pretty much on your menu settings where you can adjust just about everything.

I've got into the habit of shooting RAW simply because I can recover a lot more details should the exposure or white balance need correcting on a computer. This also means that the colours look like shit until I run the default recipe for saturation, sharpening and colour temp in batch mode in my raw converter.

make sure your RAW converter support OM-D M5, that will take away the distortion. Happy shooting.
 
You guys shoot raw for projects/exhibitions or what? Just shoot jpegs can liao lah, wah lau eh... I only shoot raw for my projects.
 
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You guys shoot raw for projects/exhibitions or what? Just shoot jpegs can liao lah, wah lau eh... I only shoot raw for my projects.

Since there's lots of space on my memory card and loads of processing power on my computer and USB2/3 can suck data through a cable in a flash, I've decided that RAW is worth the extra file size.

The advantage is that I can rescue great compositions or moments that were over/under exposed or shot with the wrong white balance settings etc.

With jpegs, a great image may have to be discarded simply because I made a mistake.

Photography is a numbers game. It always has been. Even in the days of film, pros used to shoot 300 images to get ONE money shot.
 
Since there's lots of space on my memory card and loads of processing power on my computer and USB2/3 can suck data through a cable in a flash, I've decided that RAW is worth the extra file size.

The advantage is that I can rescue great compositions or moments that were over/under exposed or shot with the wrong white balance settings etc.

With jpegs, a great image may have to be discarded simply because I made a mistake.

Photography is a numbers game. It always has been. Even in the days of film, pros used to shoot 300 images to get ONE money shot.

one film roll can only take 36 shots. 300 is too much for film.
 
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one film roll can only take 36 shots. 300 is too much for film.


My company wanted ONE photograph for the Annual Report cover. The pro who did the assignment took 12 rolls of film.

When I sat down with him after he'd done contact prints of all 12 rolls, it was the same story.. some focused on the wrong object... some depth of field too wide... some to shallow.... some too much shadow... some too many reflections.... etc.

In those days there was no computer to the rescue.
 
My company wanted ONE photograph for the Annual Report cover. The pro who did the assignment took 12 rolls of film.

When I sat down with him after he'd done contact prints of all 12 rolls, it was the same story.. some focused on the wrong object... some depth of field too wide... some to shallow.... some too much shadow... some too many reflections.... etc.

In those days there was computer to the rescue.

35mm film? Sibe cheapo that photographer, lol, I insist the photographer to use trans leh last time, in lates 90s till 2000s. Use Polaroid find the right lighting then shoot
 
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