The beautiful Brazilian island with a terrifying backstory

[jw5]

The beautiful Brazilian island with a terrifying backstory​

Today, tourists flock to the tropical island of Ilha Grande, Brazil, in search of sun, sea, and unspoilt nature. A UNESCO World Heritage Site and protected nature reserve, the car-free paradise in Rio de Janeiro state is home to colorful flora and fauna as well as some of the most beautiful beaches in the country. But the island was not always so welcoming...
Formerly a 19th-century leper colony and, more recently, a top-security prison for some of Brazil's most dangerous criminals, it was off-limits for many years.

 

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Island paradise?​

The impossibly picturesque island of Ilha Grande in Rio de Janeiro state is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and protected nature reserve. Over an hour's boat trip from the mainland, it attracts tourists looking to relax in a tropical paradise. But it has an intriguing dark tourism appeal, too.

 

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Unspoiled beaches​

The island is closed to cars, and is home to 100 beaches sitting amid pristine nature. But Ilha Grande (the name translates to "Big Island") was off-limits to outsiders for much of its recent history.

 

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Ilha Grande​

The mountainous island, which spans 193 km2 (75 sq mi), was discovered in 1502 by Portuguese navigator Andre Gonçalves.

 

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Dark past​

Surrounded by literally hundreds of smaller islands some 150 km (193 mi) from the state capital, Ilha Grande was seen as the ideal location for housing first infectious patients, and then dangerous criminals. The Cândido Mendes penal institute was closed in 1994, but the remains still stand today.

 

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Dark past​

The island's prison first housed political prisoners during the 1930s, before becoming a top-security jail for some of the most hardened criminals in the country. It was notoriously a breeding ground for some of the most violent drug gangs in Brazil.

 

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Arriving from the mainland​

Arriving on the island today, visitors would have little idea of its dark secrets. Ferries and fishing schooners ship enthusiastic tourists over from nearby beach towns on Rio de Janeiro's stunning Costa Verde, literally "Green Coast."

 

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Small-town life​

After a bumpy boat trip, tourists dock at Vila do Abraão. With less than 2,000 inhabitants, it's the largest town on the island.

 

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A refuge for pirates​

Even before it housed leprosy patients and criminals, Ilha Grande was a refuge for pirates and smugglers, who used the island as a base for operations at sea and on the mainland.

 

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Trails to the prison​

Most people come to Ilha Grande to discover its beaches and natural beauty, and hiking the steep trails is a popular activity.

 

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Dark tourism​

Those with a darker curiosity can follow a 7 km (4.34 mi) trail route to the former Cândido Mendes prison and the almost-abandoned settlement of Dois Rios, which formerly housed the prison guards.

 

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Gang crime​

The stark contrast between the history of the building and its beautiful surroundings has made this route a popular one with photographers, as well as those with an interest in the island's past.

 

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Traces of the past​

It's a steep, sticky, inland route through tropical jungle to reach the remains of the prison, but those curious to see Brazil's version of Alcatraz will be well rewarded.

 

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Chilling contrast​

The prison ruins offer a glimpse into a past that is very much at odds with Ilha Grande's current incarnation as a tourist destination filled with charming pousadas (guest houses).

 

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Violent gangs​

The prison here was infamous for nurturing gang violence. One of the country's most notorious gangs, the Comando Vermelho ("Red Command") was born here in the late 1970s.

 

[syed putra]

Papillion?

 

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Closure of the prison​

Rising costs of running the prison led to its closure in 1994, and the island's potential as a tourist attraction gradually began to be realized.

 

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A new start​

Today, much of the island is subject to environmental protection orders, which limits development and contributes to the unspoilt beauty of the place. There are no high rises or chain hotels here!

 

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Taxi boats​

With the island closed to cars, visitors get around on foot, by bicycle, or by boat. A system of 'taxi boats' transports visitors from one beautiful beach to another.

 

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Colorful residents​

The island's beautiful topography–towering mountains covered in pristine Atlantic rainforest–is home to endangered species such as maned sloths and brown howler monkeys, but visitors are more likely to spot a colorful parrot.