Penang - for the Flashpacker

[neddy]

HIRING A TAXI

The trouble with Penang is that it is a hassle getting a taxi. Unlike Singapore, where taxis are metered.

First, many will not use the meter properly even when their taxi posts a "This is a metered taxi. Haggling prohibited" sticker.

WHITE/LIMO TAXI

There is an airport limousine service (essentially a normal taxi nothing special).

You buy a pre-paid coupon at the arrival level (Exit Gate One), then go outside to the taxi kiosk to take the "limo" that is queuing up for passengers. Pass the coupon to the driver, keep a copy for yourself and tell the driver where you are going.

You will be approached by pirate taxi touts in the arrival hall. To spare yourself the drama of an uninsured taxi, just ignore them.

Eg of a limo taxi can be a 20yo Merc 180 with back-breaking seats and a struggling air-con.



RED TAXI

This is the urban local taxi.

Penangites know the "fixed" rates for taxi if you travel within George Town or further away.

For visitors, can ask a few taxi drivers - and take the average of the quoted rate as a guide.

2011 rates (estimated)
George Town - Batu Ferringhi: RM30 - 35
George Town to Air Itam (Penang Hill): RM15-20?
George Town to Airport: RM30-40 (Hope not peak hour jam)
George Town to Gurney Drive: RM10?-15 (Hope there is no traffic jam towards Gurney Drive or at Gurney Plaza)


If any SBF Penangites or visitors got latest info, please correct me.

 

[neddy]

WHERE TO STAY

For the flashpacker or poshpacker, comfort is important.


I like this boutique hotel, close to town and Komtar.
http://www.noordinmews.com/
http://www.noordinmews.com/web/suites01.htm

Note: The Noordin Street is not very interesting because it is outside the George Town buffer zone, and the streetscape is in "original" condition. It reminds us of Sungei Road with hardware stores.

But this street is very interest if you are into old pre-war shophouses.

All major types of shophouses are represented. 4 generations of Penang shophouses, from simple ones to elaborately decorated ones.

Assessibility: Usually, we walk to Komtar with all the shopping or take the taxi from the hotel to any destination in George Town. (RM12-15 because they know we are tourists).

 

[neddy]

WHERE TO STAY

A new 4-suites boutique hotel popped up not long ago.

Run by a Hong Kong lady with her Swiss hubby on "Malaysia My 2nd Home" visas)
She lived in Switzerland for many years before going to Penang.

The lady is very chatty and helpful. eg. on one occasion, someone I know lost his passport in Penang and I asked him to seek Lorina's help.
You can also ask her tips on MM2H visa. She will also recommend her lawyer.
As usual, if you received help from her, please also patronise & promote her business too.

http://www.coffeeatelier.com/

Worth considering.

They also run Cafe 55 next door. Serving delicious tapas.

Access: You can walk from Lorong Stewart to Pitt St to catch the Free CAT bus.
Otherwise, walk to Love Lane to the main street, Chulia Street. Carvarvon St (Opposite side of Love Lane) is filled with activities. (eg morning market, Wan Tan Mee stall)

This place is right at the heart of UNESCO World Heritage Site George Town.

For people who missed the olden Singapore.

 

[scroobal]

Bro, lets us know about the food as well.

 

[neddy]

WHAT TO EAT

For people who watch Little Nyonya drama, forget about that recommended restaurant.

Can't remember what is the name of the restaurant, but it is a tired looking restaurant past its best.



Go for this one. Little Kitchen @ Nyonya.

If you stay at Noordin Mews, it is down the same Noordin St (you need to cross the road to get to the restaurant)

Why this place?

1. They are like Hong Kong's private kitchens. They do not advertise. People know it from word of mouth or blogs/food review write-up. This is how they keep the standard of food.

2. Their main business is Bird Nest, the owner earned enough to last a few generations. He opened this kitchen because of his mother.

3. Mother love to cook. Cook authentic Penang Nyonya dishes disappeared elsewhere.

4. The most important reason is the authentic Penang style Nyonya food, not found in commercial restaurants. Even the Nutmeg drink is made according to traditions, not the short-cut brown liquid found in other places.

Just remember to reserve the table beforehand. The owner is known to close his kitchen unexpectedly.

Remember, his business is just his side-line to please his mother. You know the story, his father passed away and the kids do not eat at home all the time. Mother feel bored and complained. Mother needs to feel useful again.

Do not be surprised if the dishes they recommend are also what they eat.

Dinner time is best. Because of the ambiance. Photographers take note.

The owner will give you a walk around his house, explain his Stoke-on-Trent wall tiles, and you get to touch and sit at the old museum grade furniture that are forbidden at the Singapore Peranakan Museum.

OK, he is bored as well. How busy can a bird nest business be? But of course, each transaction involves a neat sum of profit. So, if you chat with him, he will chat back and show off his knowledge.


No bulls. More write up here from my Penang "girlfriend".
http://www.what2seeonline.com/2012/11/little-kitchen-nyonya-penang-offers-home-cooked-nyonya-food/


You want a memorable place for dinner, with authentic food, served on old Staffordshire china, at a nicely restored & maintain little cosy place. This is it.

 

[Raiders]

Hi brother Neddy, I've bumped up your points to reach that (inf) status. Just my way of saying thank you to your contributions.

 

[neddy]

Hi brother Neddy, I've bumped up your points to reach that (inf) status. Just my way of saying thank you to your contributions.

Thank you again, bro.

 

[lockeliberal]

Dear Scroo,

As a born bred Penangnite. Please check out the recommendations at www.what2seeonline , her street food recommendations are on the dot.


Locke

Bro, lets us know about the food as well.

 

[neddy]

Dear Scroo,

As a born bred Penangnite. Please check out the recommendations at www.what2seeonline , her street food recommendations are on the dot.


Locke

Dear lockeliberal,

I agree 100%. That is why I use her as reference in my post earlier.

 

[LordKrishna]

One thing you must buy, die die you must buy is the tau-sar-pia. Ghee Hiang is the most famous but taste wise I think they and their other competitors like Him Hiang are the same. Oh if you are there do buy their sesame oil, fantastic.

 

[Fook Seng]

One thing you must buy, die die you must buy is the tau-sar-pia. Ghee Hiang is the most famous but taste wise I think they and their other competitors like Him Hiang are the same. Oh if you are there do buy their sesame oil, fantastic.

I only know non-halal version tastes better than the halal version.

 

[LordKrishna]

I only know non-halal version tastes better than the halal version.

Oh blimey bro Fook Seng that reminds me of that sinful 鸡子饼 with lard, sedap sedap

 

[Fook Seng]

Oh blimey bro Fook Seng that reminds me of that sinful 鸡子饼 with lard, sedap sedap

Yes. Chicken biscuit is very nice to eat.

 

[Froggy]

Hi brother Neddy, I've bumped up your points to reach that (inf) status. Just my way of saying thank you to your contributions.

bumb me bumb me I love bumb bumb

 

[borom]

I noticed many of the Old Frees, Xaverians, St Georgians and Chung Ling Alumni(eg Khaw BW) are pro pappy.
Make me lose appetite for Penang laksa, char kway teow, lor bak ect2 when reminded of them.

 

[neddy]

I noticed many of the Old Frees, Xaverians, St Georgians and Chung Ling Alumni(eg Khaw BW) are pro pappy.
Make me lose appetite for Penang laksa, char kway teow, lor bak ect2 when reminded of them.

No surprise here. Penang suffered from being part of Bumi First Malaysia.
At the same time, Singapore gained from the "brain" gain. Don't blame the Penangites, just because it is a "Chinese" state compared to the rest of Malaysia, you have over-represented Malaysian Chinese from this state.

Penang also have many talents settled elsewhere, including at least one NASA engineer whose mother opened a Nyonya restaurant.

 

[JackWitson]

this information is really good for us. keep writing..

 

[eatshitndie]

cheap hotel along jalan muntri, but i recommend the small boutique hotels and hostels with a cafe underneath the rooms. in this one, it's tough to sleep with the whiney aircon which does not work sometimes. it's called the "modern hotel" for a reason.

 

[eatshitndie]

penang is still as filthy and messed up as ever. no progress except for some new factories near the airport. dilapidated kampungs still exist in the midst of shophouses and half-assed residential apartments. the place is similar to sg in the 60s. the only fucked up road upgrading work going on downtown.

 

[eatshitndie]

one glaring eyesore of penang: they don't (ever) repaint their buildings. every building has stains, including many that still have century-old stains.