Wong Ah Yoke v Michelin: The Singapore restaurants that should be on the list
Chef Benjamin Halat from Curate is probably the most underrated chef in Resorts World Sentosa.PHOTO: RESORTS WORLD SENTOSA
PUBLISHED
JUL 26, 2018, 5:57 PM SGT
UPDATED
1 HOUR AGO
FACEBOOKTWITTEREMAIL
Wong Ah Yoke
Food Critic
SINGAPORE - This year's Michelin Guide Singapore has been a big yawn for me, with only five new one-star restaurants added to the list, and the additions do nothing to quell any questions over the inadequacies of the selection process.
The two one-star hawker stalls - Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodle and Liao Fan Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice & Noodle - still stick out like sore thumbs among the restaurants also given a star.
How do they get grouped in the same category as restaurants such as Corner House or Imperial Treasure Fine Teochew Cuisine? How do they meet Michelin's criterion of quality ingredients when the vinegar used for the pork noodles comes from a commercial bottle used widely by hawkers? And is the pork a special breed?
Even if they do meet criteria such as value for money and consistency between visits, so do many other hawker stalls. Why hasn't another hawker stall been given a star in the last two years?
As an observer of the Singapore food scene, the choices do not make sense to me.
One can only surmise that the two stalls were initially selected as a publicity stunt so that Michelin could boast that Liao Fan, with chicken rice starting at $2 a plate, is the cheapest one-star eatery in the world.
And after the choice was met with derision by most Singaporeans, it had to keep the two stalls on the list so it would not be seen as caving in to public opinion. But no other hawker stalls were added, to avoid generating more talk of the guide being a joke.
Which restaurants should be given a star is of course debatable. Even Singapore food writers disagree on which restaurants here are the best. But no matter how subjective palates are, there are some things that everyone can agree on.
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Full list of Michelin-starred restaurants for 2018; read Wong Ah Yoke's reviews
What got me scratching my head over this year's list is new entrant Sushi Kimura. Without running down the restaurant - it is a good one and as deserving as some already on the list - chef Tomoo Kimura used to work at Hashida Sushi, which has been ignored by Michelin for the past three years. Hashida closed recently, but it is still in the printed guide and without a star.
Has chef Kimura improved so much over the past year that he has far surpassed his former employer? Perhaps he has. I can't say because I haven't dined in Sushi Kimura for more than a year, but I would really like to know what foodies in Singapore think.
I have my own list of restaurants in Singapore that stand out and deserve the equivalent of a two-star rating. Some are already on the Michelin list and some are not.
I also have a wishlist of restaurants that should have been recognised with a star this year but were not. Let me know if you agree, or if you have any restaurants that you think deserve a star.
MY TWO-STAR RESTAURANTS:
1) Odette
The Challans Guinea Fowl 'A La Braise from Odette, which was ranked No. 28 on The World's Best 50 Restaurants list last month. PHOTO: ODETTE
This modern French restaurant in the National Gallery Singapore has been receiving one accolade after another since opening in 2015. The latest is being ranked No. 28 on The World's Best 50 Restaurants list last month. Chef Julien Royer has gone from strength to strength with his refined take on French cooking, with top ingredients sourced from around the world. The dishes are elegant but always rooted in solid cooking and good flavours.
2) Les Amis
More mushroom than tart, the Mushroom Tart has slices of grilled ceps blanketing the thin pastry at the base. PHOTO: LES AMIS
The first fine-dining independent French restaurant in Singapore which opened in 1994, Les Amis still holds its own as one of the best places to dine at. Chef Sebastien Lepinoy's modern take on the cuisine is light and bright, with flavours that sparkle on the palate. Yet, it keeps an unmistakable French character.
3) Waku Ghin
Pan-fried fillet of ayu from Waku Ghin, a restaurant in Marina Bay Sands. PHOTO: ST FILE
This modern Japanese restaurant by chef Tetsuya Wakuda has always impressed me with its immaculate cooking and fine ingredients. A simple pan-fried fish can be elevated into a work of art here - perfectly moist and smooth inside with a golden crisp coat. And its signature dish of marinated botan shrimp with sea urchin and oscietra caviar is pure indulgence.
4) Shinji @ Carlton Hotel
Master chef Koichiro Oshino of Shinji by Kanesaka offers the best bursts of flavours in his sushi, although the food is still excellent when not served by him. PHOTO: ST FILE
The sushi here is special and you taste it the moment you slide a piece into your mouth. Perhaps it has to do with how the rice is deliberately served a little warm, so that the heat melts the oil in the fish and brings out the flavours just a bit more. It's best if you are served by master chef Koichiro Oshino, but I've dined there when he is not around and the food is still excellent.
5) Summer Pavilion
Pan-fried Canadian lobster with wok-seared green asparagus and black truffle sauce at Summer Pavilion, The Ritz-Carlton. ST PHOTO: WONG AH YOKE
It took me a while to warm up to chef Cheung Siu Kong's cooking after he took over the kitchen here from previous chef Fok Kai Yee. But over the past four years, the Cantonese dishes here get better with each visit and I now look forward to each meal at Summer Pavilionbecause I get surprised each time - and always in a good way.
6) Corner House
The Japanese Geoduck comprises slices of the shellfish topped with caviar and paired with vegetables that sit on a mild citrus sauce that binds the ingredients together. ST PHOTO: WONG AH YOKE
Chef Jason Tan is a master at bringing out the best in the ingredients he uses in each dish. The flavours complement one another well, and I am constantly surprised by the delicate and pretty plating. The lovely setting of the restaurant inside the Singapore Botanic Gardens just adds to the charm. I'd suggest going for lunch to enjoy the verdant view.
MY NEW ONE-STAR RESTAURANTS:
1) Majestic
The Smoked French Corn-fed Chicken With Salt And Hickory (above) is juicy and flavourful while the Stewed “Mee Sua” With Oyster, Vegetable And Crab Roe Gravy has plump oysters and an excellent gravy. ST PHOTO: WONG AH YOKE
Chef Yong Bing Ngen's cooking has become even better since he moved his restaurant from Bukit Pasoh Road to Marina One. Whether it's dim sum or roast meats or even a simple plate of fried noodles, the cooking here is consistently outstanding. And many foodies go out of their way to dine here, because this is probably among the few Chinese restaurants in the Shenton Way area to not only open on Sundays but also be packed every week.
2) Rang Mahal
Bengali fish masala from Rang Mahal. PHOTO: THE BUSINESS TIMES
Probably the first fine-dining North Indian restaurant here - I first dined there in 1984 when it was in the now defunct Oberoi Imperial hotel - Rang Mahal has become even better now with the return of chef Milind Sovani as head of its kitchen. He modernises Indian cooking without losing its traditional flavours and character, just refining it and making it relevant to young diners.
3) Violet Oon Satay Bar & Grill
Chicken Satay with chunky pieces of meat and gravy topped with grated pineapple. PHOTO: VIOLET OON SATAY BAR & GRILL
Restaurateur-chef Violet Oon is the doyenne of Peranakan cooking who pushes the cuisine to fine-dining standards, while maintaining traditional cooking methods. While some may argue about the consistency of the cooking at her other restaurants, I've never had a bad meal at the Satay Bar. It is, for me, the best satay in Singapore, with well-marinated chunky grilled meats and a gravy that is not overly sweet like most others.
4) atout
The Steamed Leek Vinaigrette (above) is simple yet memorable. ST PHOTO: WONG AH YOKE
Chef Patrick Heuberger's new restaurant takes him back to his homey style of French cookingthat speaks of heart and hearth. Whether it's his housemade pates and terrines, or a country dish such as a chicken casserole with 40 cloves of garlic, the food is honest and something I never get tired of eating.
5) Curate
Foie gras parfait topped with sansho pepper and served with passionfruit gel at Curate. ST PHOTO: WONG AH YOKE
Benjamin Halat is probably the most underrated chef in Resorts World Sentosa, but that's only because Curate is conceived as a restaurant to host visiting Michelin-starred chefs. As resident chef, he fills the gaps between their visits. But his creative cooking, matched with beautiful plating, impresses me more than that of some of the visiting chefs. His current spring/summer menu, for example, updates the German dishes he grew up with - sometimes in a humorous way.
Chef Benjamin Halat from Curate is probably the most underrated chef in Resorts World Sentosa.PHOTO: RESORTS WORLD SENTOSA
PUBLISHED
JUL 26, 2018, 5:57 PM SGT
UPDATED
1 HOUR AGO
FACEBOOKTWITTEREMAIL
Wong Ah Yoke
Food Critic
SINGAPORE - This year's Michelin Guide Singapore has been a big yawn for me, with only five new one-star restaurants added to the list, and the additions do nothing to quell any questions over the inadequacies of the selection process.
The two one-star hawker stalls - Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodle and Liao Fan Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice & Noodle - still stick out like sore thumbs among the restaurants also given a star.
How do they get grouped in the same category as restaurants such as Corner House or Imperial Treasure Fine Teochew Cuisine? How do they meet Michelin's criterion of quality ingredients when the vinegar used for the pork noodles comes from a commercial bottle used widely by hawkers? And is the pork a special breed?
Even if they do meet criteria such as value for money and consistency between visits, so do many other hawker stalls. Why hasn't another hawker stall been given a star in the last two years?
As an observer of the Singapore food scene, the choices do not make sense to me.
One can only surmise that the two stalls were initially selected as a publicity stunt so that Michelin could boast that Liao Fan, with chicken rice starting at $2 a plate, is the cheapest one-star eatery in the world.
And after the choice was met with derision by most Singaporeans, it had to keep the two stalls on the list so it would not be seen as caving in to public opinion. But no other hawker stalls were added, to avoid generating more talk of the guide being a joke.
Which restaurants should be given a star is of course debatable. Even Singapore food writers disagree on which restaurants here are the best. But no matter how subjective palates are, there are some things that everyone can agree on.
Related Story
Has Singapore Michelin Guide lost its mojo?
Related Story
No three-Michelin-starred restaurant for Singapore, but 5 new one-star establishments
Related Story
Full list of Michelin-starred restaurants for 2018; read Wong Ah Yoke's reviews
What got me scratching my head over this year's list is new entrant Sushi Kimura. Without running down the restaurant - it is a good one and as deserving as some already on the list - chef Tomoo Kimura used to work at Hashida Sushi, which has been ignored by Michelin for the past three years. Hashida closed recently, but it is still in the printed guide and without a star.
Has chef Kimura improved so much over the past year that he has far surpassed his former employer? Perhaps he has. I can't say because I haven't dined in Sushi Kimura for more than a year, but I would really like to know what foodies in Singapore think.
I have my own list of restaurants in Singapore that stand out and deserve the equivalent of a two-star rating. Some are already on the Michelin list and some are not.
I also have a wishlist of restaurants that should have been recognised with a star this year but were not. Let me know if you agree, or if you have any restaurants that you think deserve a star.
MY TWO-STAR RESTAURANTS:
1) Odette
This modern French restaurant in the National Gallery Singapore has been receiving one accolade after another since opening in 2015. The latest is being ranked No. 28 on The World's Best 50 Restaurants list last month. Chef Julien Royer has gone from strength to strength with his refined take on French cooking, with top ingredients sourced from around the world. The dishes are elegant but always rooted in solid cooking and good flavours.
2) Les Amis
The first fine-dining independent French restaurant in Singapore which opened in 1994, Les Amis still holds its own as one of the best places to dine at. Chef Sebastien Lepinoy's modern take on the cuisine is light and bright, with flavours that sparkle on the palate. Yet, it keeps an unmistakable French character.
3) Waku Ghin
This modern Japanese restaurant by chef Tetsuya Wakuda has always impressed me with its immaculate cooking and fine ingredients. A simple pan-fried fish can be elevated into a work of art here - perfectly moist and smooth inside with a golden crisp coat. And its signature dish of marinated botan shrimp with sea urchin and oscietra caviar is pure indulgence.
4) Shinji @ Carlton Hotel
The sushi here is special and you taste it the moment you slide a piece into your mouth. Perhaps it has to do with how the rice is deliberately served a little warm, so that the heat melts the oil in the fish and brings out the flavours just a bit more. It's best if you are served by master chef Koichiro Oshino, but I've dined there when he is not around and the food is still excellent.
5) Summer Pavilion
It took me a while to warm up to chef Cheung Siu Kong's cooking after he took over the kitchen here from previous chef Fok Kai Yee. But over the past four years, the Cantonese dishes here get better with each visit and I now look forward to each meal at Summer Pavilionbecause I get surprised each time - and always in a good way.
6) Corner House
Chef Jason Tan is a master at bringing out the best in the ingredients he uses in each dish. The flavours complement one another well, and I am constantly surprised by the delicate and pretty plating. The lovely setting of the restaurant inside the Singapore Botanic Gardens just adds to the charm. I'd suggest going for lunch to enjoy the verdant view.
MY NEW ONE-STAR RESTAURANTS:
1) Majestic
Chef Yong Bing Ngen's cooking has become even better since he moved his restaurant from Bukit Pasoh Road to Marina One. Whether it's dim sum or roast meats or even a simple plate of fried noodles, the cooking here is consistently outstanding. And many foodies go out of their way to dine here, because this is probably among the few Chinese restaurants in the Shenton Way area to not only open on Sundays but also be packed every week.
2) Rang Mahal
Probably the first fine-dining North Indian restaurant here - I first dined there in 1984 when it was in the now defunct Oberoi Imperial hotel - Rang Mahal has become even better now with the return of chef Milind Sovani as head of its kitchen. He modernises Indian cooking without losing its traditional flavours and character, just refining it and making it relevant to young diners.
3) Violet Oon Satay Bar & Grill
Restaurateur-chef Violet Oon is the doyenne of Peranakan cooking who pushes the cuisine to fine-dining standards, while maintaining traditional cooking methods. While some may argue about the consistency of the cooking at her other restaurants, I've never had a bad meal at the Satay Bar. It is, for me, the best satay in Singapore, with well-marinated chunky grilled meats and a gravy that is not overly sweet like most others.
4) atout
Chef Patrick Heuberger's new restaurant takes him back to his homey style of French cookingthat speaks of heart and hearth. Whether it's his housemade pates and terrines, or a country dish such as a chicken casserole with 40 cloves of garlic, the food is honest and something I never get tired of eating.
5) Curate
Benjamin Halat is probably the most underrated chef in Resorts World Sentosa, but that's only because Curate is conceived as a restaurant to host visiting Michelin-starred chefs. As resident chef, he fills the gaps between their visits. But his creative cooking, matched with beautiful plating, impresses me more than that of some of the visiting chefs. His current spring/summer menu, for example, updates the German dishes he grew up with - sometimes in a humorous way.
