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Years ago, I had the most immense pleasure at a dirty back alley in Kuala Lumpur.
It was hot, moist, steamy, salty and dark.
It was my first plate of KL noodles.
Of course in KL, it is just called Hokkien noodles but if you order that in Singapore and expect the Malaysian version, you might be disappointed.
After that first plate, I was hooked.
My sense of direction is dismal, so I never found my way back to the stall and continued my search for that back here in Singapore.
Wasted calories
A lot of times I took a bite and regretted it immediately. I had, once again, wasted my calories.
But my search hasn’t been futile.
I found my favourite version of the KL Hokkien noodles in the heart of Geylang.
Kong Kee Seafood Restaurant is a cosy air-conditioned restaurant that looks unassuming from the outside.
Bear in mind this is an area where the taste of the food screams louder than the exterior, so go with an open mind.
It is famous for two things: The noodles and its deep-sea grouper.
The Hokkien noodles (from $6 onwards) is exactly the way I like it.
The restaurant claims that the recipe originated from a stall on Petaling Street.
It’s prepared with a pork bone and chicken stock that has been cooked over a slow fire for five hours.
The fat noodles and smoky dark sauce – the two vital ingredients to this dish – are imported from KL.
The noodles are boiled for 15 minutes in the stock, so if you are planning to eat this, ask for it the moment you step into the restaurant. The anticipation can drive you crazy.
My favourite part of the dish is the pork lard. This is sinful but heavenly.
Health advocates may be up in arms about this. Moderation is key, so savour the few pieces but don’t go overboard. At least, try not to.
The restaurant is more than just Hokkien noodles.
It serves a selection of dishes that I also enjoyed.
The Hong Kong-style sliced grouper (from $28) was pleasant. The fish has a firm texture but, overall, the dish was light.
The vermicelli crab (at market price) was packed with flavour and aromatic.
But truth be told, I was so taken in by the Hokkien noodles, the other dishes paled in comparison.
And, once again, it shows that you don’t need many dishes to draw the crowd. Just one solid dish and people will flock to you.
Kong Kee Seafood Restaurant
611 Lor 31 Geylang
Singapore 389550
Opens: Daily 11am to 1am
Tel: 6443-8221 to make a reservation
