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A Singaporean's guide to living in Thailand

yinyang

Alfrescian (Inf)
Asset
Talat Phlu (betel market) sounds like a good, old charming place to walk see. Rich Chinese (teochew) heritage :smile:

Take your tummy to Talat Phlu
Thailand January 24, 2018 01:00

By Pattarawadee Saengmanee
The Nation

Traditionally the origin of Bangkok's betel supply, this historic district teems with charm

WITH A MIXTURE of historic Buddhist monasteries, sacred Chinese shrines and colourful culinary delights, the old Bangkok residential neighbourhood of Talat Phlu has long been popular for day trips.

Just a 10-minute walk from its namesake BTS station, the area is convenient enough to leave the car at home and roam around on foot.

Visitors can play amateur archaeologist, exploring the beautiful heritage culture, and gourmets can sample diverse, pocket-friendly street food and rarely seen Thai sweets.

Perched on the western bank of the Chao Phraya River, Talat Phlu was the site of the first Chinese settlement in the Thon Buri Period, before Bangkok became the capital.

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Right at the centre of the Talat Phlu neighbourhood is a railway station ringed with food stalls and shophouses.

When some of the Chinese immigrants established a new trading hub at Sampeng, a Muslim community took over the site and began growing phlu (betel). It wasn’t long before a market appeared specialising in betel nuts, resulting in the name Talat Phlu.

The neighbourhood runs along Thoet Thai Road. There’s an old railway station and a fresh market surrounded with shophouses and food stalls offering great dishes all day long.

A stone’s throw from the train station is the restaurant Sunee, an establishment that’s been around for more than five decades and does a wonderful khao moo daeng and moo grob.

Starting at just Bt30, the first dish has steamed rice layered with tender barbecued pork or crispy roast-pork belly in sweet red sauce and roasted peanuts. The presentation is quite simple, the flavour excellent.

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Sunee has served rice with barbecued pork for more than five decades.

Beef lovers head to Gao Lao Nue Puey Talat Phlu, a 60-year-old store known for its mellow soup of braised beef. A bowl of rice noodles (Bt50) arrives with tender beef chunks and offal, and diners can boost the heat as they wish with nam prik phao (spicy chilli paste).

Also on offer are khao kraphao nue puey (rice with stir-fried beef and basil), khao pad goong (fried rice with prawns) and guay tieo khua gai (stir-fried noodles with chicken).

Next door is another long-standing eatery, the patisserie Khanom Mae Cheng, currently run by Suchada Khongkraphan from her family’s third generation. She’s adapted some recipes with palm sugar, which is better for the health.

Every day Suchada serves more than 20 kinds of Thai desserts. They include khanom babin (coconut cake of glutinous rice flour), woon haew (water-chestnut jelly), khanom fak thong (yellow pumpkin pudding), khanom chan (layered steamed pandan cake) and khanom mor gaeng (mung bean custard).

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Khanom Mae Cheng offers more than 20 kinds of Thai desserts.

Another favourite for sweet lovers is the 40-year-old Gim Aeng Guay Chieum (the name means “sweetened banana”) at the mouth of Thoet Thai Soi 20.

Auntie Gim Aeng uses only the best bananas – from Tha Yang district in Phetchaburi – simmers them in syrup until golden, and serves them with fresh coconut milk. She also has sweetened potatoes, taro and pumpkin, the prices ranging from Bt30 to Bt100.

There’s an interesting shortcut to Talat Wat Klang on Thoet Thai Soi 10 that takes you to the Suriya Caffee shop, a terrific spot for Thai-style coffee. And a short walk from there is a stall called Tee Dam Khanom Khai serving soft ovals of homemade dough for Bt12 that pair perfectly with your coffee.

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Go to Tee Dam Khanom Khai for baked oval of soft dough.

Based on a 100-year-old recipe, the dough is made with wheat flour and baked in a custom stove over mangrove charcoal, which tends to get hotter than other woods.

If your tummy still has room, hit the stall selling beef noodles at the end of the market. A large helping costs Bt60. The cook adds Chinese herbs, lemon juice, chillies and lettuce to the soup, which has a smooth flavour and tempting aroma.

Now you really should be full, so commence the promenade at Wat Ratchakrueh, which the Burmese army built in the Late Ayutthaya Period.

King Taksin restored the temple and erected a chedi to enshrine relics of the Lord Buddha. There’s a man-made mountain of stones and a pavilion with a Buddha statue in an unusual reclining posture – lying on his back ready for cremation.

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The reclining Buddha at Wat Intharam lies flat on its back, awaiting cremation.

Taksin the Great also renovated Wat Intharam and his relics are believed installed there. The temple underwent another major uplift during the reign of King Rama III, when a bigger, boat-like ordination hall was erected that houses a beautiful Buddha statue called Phra Phutthachinnavorn.

Inside two pavilions added at the same time is a Buddha footprint and another Buddha reclining for cremation, the feet stretched outside a coffin. Two more buildings have a pair of rare Buddha images – one lying on the right side and other on the left.

Next, head to Ah Nieh Geng, a Tae Chiew shrine on Thoet Thai Soi 21. It has a 200-year-old handcrafted wooden sculpture of the goddess Guanyin imported from China, appeals to whom bring prosperity in business.

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The faithful visit the Tae Chiew shrine Ah Nieh Geng to pray for prosperity.

Founded in 1975, the shrine of the Fire Goddess was the home of Talat Phlu’s first lion-dance team. In 1991, the team moved to bigger quarters on Soi Thoet Thai 16, where they perform on special occasions.

On Soi Thoet Thai 22 is the hallowed Tae Chiew Guan Wu Shrine built in the Early Rattanakosin Period, right on a bank of the Bangkok Yai Canal.

Inside is a venerable sculpture of Guan Wu and beautiful hand-painted murals depicting a pilgrimage of the Monkey King. Giant red pillars are adorned with auspicious icons, such as a flying dragons and pumpkins.

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/detail/thailand/30336984
 

Froggy

Alfrescian (InfP) + Mod
Moderator
Generous Asset
@yinyang thank you for the above post. I’m been thinking of visiting this Talat Phlu for a very long time. Will be fun. Have you been there?
 

chonburifc

Alfrescian (Inf)
Asset
Just check out the google map location of tarad plu and realised I have been there a couple of times without knowing the name, during the late 90s as my ex-employer housed the sinkie staff in one of the condos around that area. The district is part of a bigger area known to the locals as “Fang Thon” or “Thon side” which is short form of saying “Thonburi side”.

If going by road, most common route are either by Thaksin bridge from Sathorn North or Rama 3 bridge from Charoenkrung. Traffic on Thaksin bridge can be very very very bad during the peak hours. Other way of going in by car is by Pinklao (never tried but was told by ex-colleague this is a good way if traffic is bad at Thaksin bridge).

If I was not driving, I took a shuttle boat at Sathorn jetty (behind shangrilla hotel) which take less than 10 minutes to go across the other side. From there, just get a metered taxi to bring you to anywhere.

If got lost while exploring, I always used Thaksin Hospital as a reference point. This hospital is quite famous so most taxi drivers know the hospital. Also known as “Ting Tong” hospital as it is known for treating mental patients.

Will like to recommend Yok Yor reataurant which is both river cruise and riverside restaurant. (Not sure still open or not)

Yup. This area is one of the few area in Bangkok that doesnt feel like Bangkok.
 

yinyang

Alfrescian (Inf)
Asset
...recommend Yok Yor reataurant which is both river cruise and riverside restaurant. (Not sure still open or not).
Still open, both Yok Yor setups on same stretch. Did the river cruise makan onboard last Sept (and posted here I think). Different, good local 'flavour' contrasting with many other touristy cruises (more buffet style). Years back, I even did dinner on a reconstructed rice tongkang, and it was a mistake:(
 

chonburifc

Alfrescian (Inf)
Asset
Sinkie kaki here for 3 days RnR. Chill chill at Jomtien Rompho Bar complex. Kaki bio this Black dress zhabor. KNN sit almost 2 hours and 4 lady drinks liaoz still no outcome. Finishing my 5th bottle of beer and will balek sleep liaoz. Let them to settle themselves. (With my condition, quite troublesome to be a translator)




Almost zhao geng. 555

Edit: Update. Kaki just settled. ST= 2200 plus Bar fine = 600.
 
Last edited:

rotikosong

Alfrescian
Loyal
Still open, both Yok Yor setups on same stretch. Did the river cruise makan onboard last Sept (and posted here I think). Different, good local 'flavour' contrasting with many other touristy cruises (more buffet style). Years back, I even did dinner on a reconstructed rice tongkang, and it was a mistake:(

I ate at YokYor just a couple months back so they are definitely open. I've been several times over the years. It's very popular - there's 2 branches near each other on the same side. Only 1 has the cruise. You order off a menu and the boat takes off for an hour and a half up and down the river. Sit near the speakers on board (otherwise the sounds doesn't carry) if you want to hear the English recorded tour info - they point out buildings and bridges along the way.

I also went on the rice tongkang many years ago (maybe close to 20 years back) and I thought it was nice. It was operated by the then Marriott (which has now been rebranded to some thing else). A little pricey but very atmospheric. Set menu.

I have not been on the Chaophraya cruise ships with buffet and music and disco lights.
 

chonburifc

Alfrescian (Inf)
Asset
I ate at YokYor just a couple months back so they are definitely open. I've been several times over the years. It's very popular - there's 2 branches near each other on the same side. Only 1 has the cruise. You order off a menu and the boat takes off for an hour and a half up and down the river. Sit near the speakers on board (otherwise the sounds doesn't carry) if you want to hear the English recorded tour info - they point out buildings and bridges along the way.

I also went on the rice tongkang many years ago (maybe close to 20 years back) and I thought it was nice. It was operated by the then Marriott (which has now been rebranded to some thing else). A little pricey but very atmospheric. Set menu.

I have not been on the Chaophraya cruise ships with buffet and music and disco lights.
Wow! surprise both of you been to Yok Yor cos not many BKK people even heard of the place. And the place itself is not easy to find.

Hope to revisit Yok Yor again soon. Yup, almost 20 years ago liaoz. scary sia. time flies.
 

Leongsam

High Order Twit / Low SES subject
Admin
Asset
Hot on social media since yesterday. Looks like a witch hunt is going on for the hit and run motherfucker.


What's the latest have they caught the bastard yet? I thought the Thais were above this sort of disgusting behavior. :rolleyes::mad:
 

chonburifc

Alfrescian (Inf)
Asset
Black pickup driver currently being CSI. License plate is Gor Chor 7222, registered in Pathum Thani. Was reported by one anonymous social media user that driver of the black pickup is a young punk whose father is a senior mata. This has yet to be confirmed.

Meanwhile, the mata has officially announced that the motorcyclist has made a report with many witness.

Doubt the CB kia can hide for long.
 
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