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Watches & Wonders 2022

Scrooball (clone)

Alfrescian
Loyal
https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/t...eft-handed-model-with-a-green-and-black-bezel

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Introducing The Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 126720VTNR: A Left-Handed Model With A Green And Black Bezel​

Southpaws rejoice as the Crown delivers a destro surprise.​

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DANNY MILTON
MARCH 30, 2022
31

What We Know
Get a load of this! Out of all the models Rolex could've released, with watch enthusiasm and commercial potential soaring at an all-time high, what we have here is…a GMT-Master II for lefties? Nobody but nobody could've predicted this one.
Sure, many of us expected some kind of GMT following last year's reintroduction of steel models with Oyster bracelets. But this one is a double surprise. Shocker number one: The green and black bezel. Shocker number two: The crown protruding from the left side of the case. In watch parlance, this is a "destro," which means it's designed for those who wear their watch on their right wrist.
A Rolex GMT Master II

Other than these two changes, the watch maintains the key tenets of the GMT-Master II. It has a bi-color Cerachrom bezel bezel, cyclops magnified date window, and the option to have either a Jubilee or Oyster bracelet with the EasyLink adjustment system in the clasp.
In order to create this new reference, Rolex was able to maintain the the ref. 3285 – the 4Hz, 70 hour power reserve in-house caliber – in positioning the crown on the left side of the case.
Rolex has not brought this destro GMT into every colorway in the collection. As of now, it only exists in the green and black configuration.
What We Think
This is crazy! Rolex simply doesn't do things like this anymore. In fact, it hardly ever has.
Rolex GMT Master II

Auction fans will remember that in 2018, during both its Geneva and Hong Kong auctions, Phillips did sell two possibly unique Rolex GMT-Master ref. 6542 models – one in the classic Pepsi configuration, and another in gold with a brown bezel (both without crown guards). But it is highly likely that these were commissioned pieces. In fact, the gold model seems to have been an issued watch.
These two vintage lefties did technically establish a destro precedent (one further bolstered by the existence of left-handed Cellini and Submariner models). So why's it so hard to believe this new GMT exists? Because it feels very unlike modern Rolex to produce such a peculiar watch with such niche appeal. As Jack has written before, only about 10 percent of the human population is left-handed, which is why most watches have the crown on the right – for ease of use by the masses. And yet here we are.

We now have the destro GMT-Master II in our lives. Rolex, which is known for having issues producing (and supplying) enough watches for everyone who wants them, is now appealing to an entirely different subset of buyers who purchase watches that fit on their right wrists. So will the limited audience make these any easier to get a hold of? Time will tell.
GMT-Master

The green and black color variation picks up where the now-discontinued solid black bezel model left off. You see, when that watch launched way back in 2007, Rolex was unable to create bicolor bezels out of ceramic. Then they made the BLNR, aka the Batman – a blue and black bezel variant which itself was created because Rolex was unable to make a Pepsi configuration out of ceramic. Now that the Crown has this whole ceramic thing on lock, I think this represents the black and green motif Rolex always wanted.
People are no doubt already calling this the "Sprite" GMT after a range of soda-inspired nicknames in the collection, but Sprite colors are yellow and green. This is black and green, making it more like the "Starbucks" Submariner. Frankly, to my eyes, this looks less like any type of drink and more like the quintessence of Rolex branding.
m126720vtnr-0001_2201ac_002-v2.jpg

At the same time, this feels less like something Rolex would do and more of a Tudor move. I guess the ideas and designs between the two companies are coming closer and closer to the center. We need only look to the Tudor Pelagos LHD to see a similar release in recent memory.
So what is this really? It is a wearable 40mm Rolex sport watch in solid stainless steel, but with a very specific design change that happens to be quite democratic – allowing the right-wristed into the fold. What we don't know (yet) with this release being so fresh, is whether a watch like this will push Rolex sport models further into unobtainable territory or if this is so hyper-specific that it starts to calm the un-obtainable mayhem we've seen over the past 5 years.
m126720vtnr-0001_2201ac_003-v2.jpg

I happen to have an infatuation with destro watches and think this one will look killer on either the left or right wrist. If enough other fans are like me, it's gonna be tough to come by.
But enough of what I think. What say you? Keep your eyes on HODINKEE as we hope to deliver hands-on coverage of this and the other new Rolex releases soon.

The Basics
Brand: Rolex
Model: Oyster Perpetual GMT Master II
Reference Number: 126720VTNR
Diameter: 40mm
Case Material: Oystersteel
Dial Color: Black
Lume: Chromalight display
Water Resistance: 100m
Strap/Bracelet: Oystersteel bracelet

The Movement
Caliber: 3285
Functions: 24 hour display, second time zone, instantaneous date, stop seconds
Power Reserve: 70 hours
Winding: Mechanical self-winding
Chronometer Certified: Yes

Pricing & Availability
Price: CHF 10,500
Availability: Immediately
 

Scrooball (clone)

Alfrescian
Loyal
https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-new-rolex-air-king-ref-126900

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Introducing The New Rolex Air-King Ref. 126900​

Now with crown guards and lumed applied numerals.​

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DANNY MILTON
MARCH 30, 2022
15

What We Know
We've been watching the Rolex teaser video for the past few days trying to figure out the "skywards" theme. Well, now we know what it was all about: An update to the brand's most esoteric steel sports watch, the Air-King. Today, the Crown has unveiled what looks to be the exact same model as it's been over the last six years. Look closer, though, and key differences abound.
It comes housed in the same 40mm stainless steel case as it always has, with the satin brushed Oyster bracelet, and EasyLink Oyster clasp. It has the same black dial, with yellow and green flourishes for the logo and wordmarks, and the same aviation-inspired numerals. It even has the same three, six, and nine applied numeral-set a la the Rolex Explorer. So that begs the question, what's changed?
Rolex Air King

Two words: Crown guards. This thing has 'em, giving it a much sportier feel in the same vein as watches like the Submariner and the GMT-Master II. However, this watch does not have a functional bezel. So that means this watch has a smooth polished bezel and crown guards. Wild.
The next difference is in those applied numerals. They're now filled with luminescent Chromalight material (much like Rolex did when it updated the 39mm Explorer model, years back), making the watch much more legible than its previous incarnation. Air-King fans will also notice that the numeral 5 is now an 05, another easy tell between this model and its predecessor.
Rolex Air King close up

Rolex has also gone and equipped this watch with its in-house caliber 3230 movement, first released in 2020. It features the brand's patented Chronergy escapement and 70 hours of power reserve.
What We Think
Other than Marlon Brando's GMT-Master II (which is a watch with a missing bezel), I cannot think of a single Rolex model, in the brand's history, that had crown guards and a non-functional bezel. This sounds like a tiny detail, but it's very apparent when you look at the watch. Over the past six years or so, you could compare this to the 39mm Explorer or even the 40mm Milgauss in terms of the overall look and case design. Those models were always able to straddle between dress and sport.
Rolex Air King

The inclusion of the crown guards elevates this watch into full-on Rolex sports watch status. But there's more to get excited about. I have never been one to like the applied white gold, non-lumed Arabic numerals Rolex employed on the last iteration of the Air-King. It definitely added an air of "fancy" to a watch that should be toolishly charming. There's also no functioning to shiny numerals that disappear against a black dial.
Rolex Air King

By adding lume to these numerals, they immediately become more functional because you can read them in the dark. I have to hand it to Rolex on this one – they made a conscious decision to move this model range into complete usable sport watch, which is the Rolex way.
Now, if you didn't like the general design of the modern Air-King before, this will likely do nothing for you. But I kind of think this might just be the sleeper release of the Rolex lineup. All of the attention will be squarely on the destro GMT-Master II. So maybe, just maybe, these will be available? One can dream.


The Basics
Brand: Rolex
Model: Air-King
Reference Number: 126900
Diameter: 40mm
Thickness:
Case Material:
Stainless Steel
Dial Color: Black
Indexes: Applied
Lume: Yes
Water Resistance: 100m
Strap/Bracelet: Bracelet

The Movement
Caliber: 3230
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Power Reserve: 70 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 4Hz
Jewels: 31
Chronometer Certified: Yes
m126900-0001_2201ac_002-v2.jpg


Pricing & Availability
Price: CHF 7,000
Availability: Immediately
Limited Edition: No
 

Scrooball (clone)

Alfrescian
Loyal
https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-day-date-40mm-in-platinum-with-fluted-bezel

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Introducing The Rolex Day-Date 40mm In Platinum With Fluted Bezel​

Heavy metal meets heavy hitter.​

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JACK FORSTER
MARCH 30, 2022
3
What We Know

There may be no Rolex more loaded with cultural freight than the Day-Date. Most often seen in its 36mm incarnation, it's been available in a 40mm case with the caliber 3255 since 2015. The Day-Date in gold at 36mm is already a hefty chunk of quintessential Rolex – at 40mm, it's almost too big to be believed. In platinum, it may not be as immediately recognizable from across the room as a precious-metal Rolex. But on the wrist and in the hand, you're left with no doubt as to the ingot-like intensity of the Day-Date, especially in 40mm. Today, Rolex announced the introduction of a 40mm Day-Date in platinum with, for the first time, according to Rolex, a fluted bezel.
rolex 40mm platinum day date with fluted bezel

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Inside is the Rolex caliber 3255, which is almost certainly the most technically advanced conventional Swiss lever escapement movement being made right now. The heart of the 3255 is the Chronergy escapement, which has an optimized lever geometry that transmits energy more efficiently to the balance than a standard Swiss lever, which contributes to both the 70 hour power reserve, and to the movement's ability to fall within Rolex's very tight standard for precision: ±2 seconds a day.
What We Think
The Day-Date in platinum with a fluted bezel is probably going to feel like a bit of a monster. But then again, if you buy into what the Day-Date means in terms of announcing everything from your paid-up membership in the local creative businessman's fraternal organization to any of many more conventional pathways to fame and fortune (if not infamy), this might be a very attractive option.
day date 40mm platinum

As an avowed Day-Date traditionalist who never met a 36mm yellow gold model I didn't like, I suspect I would find this to be simply more Day-Date than I could handle, but I'd still like to try. Platinum can be a somewhat diffident metal, especially in smaller sizes, when it can be mistaken at a casual glance for steel (or, possibly, white gold, depending on the watch) but in this model, at 40mm in diameter, and especially with that fluted bezel flashing in the light like a king's coronet on coronation day (no extra charge for the Crown in-jokes, boys and girls) people are going to see you and your earthly success coming a mile away.
president bracelet

The Rolex Day-Date in 40mm platinum with fluted bezel: Case, 40mm, platinum, President bracelet with Crownlock folding clasp. Movement, Rolex caliber 3255, COSC and Rolex chronometer certified, with high efficiency "Chronergy" escapement; 28,000 vph; instantaneous changing quick-setting day-date; 31 jewels; Parachrom blue balance spring with overcoil; freesprung adjustable mass balance; amagnetic escapement and oscillator system. Dial, as shown, champagne with sunray finish; gold markers and hands. Water resistance 100 m. Price on request.
 

Scrooball (clone)

Alfrescian
Loyal
https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/t...his-year-its-back-in-a-big-way-embargo-on-the

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Introducing The Breitling Navitimer Was Released 70 Years Ago – And This Year It's Back In A Big Way​

Three sizes, two case materials, and one legendary pilot's watch.​

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COLE PENNINGTON
MARCH 29, 2022
74

What We Know
Among the enthusiast community, the exact date is up for debate – but according to Breitling, 2022 marks the 70th anniversary of the Navitimer. And the brand is celebrating with not a single re-edition, but an entire range of Navitimers coming in 46mm, 43mm, 41mm, in stainless steel, and red gold. And if the range of sizes doesn't offer enough variety, then consider that there are 13 different dials to choose from.
watch

The Navitimer is one of Breitling's most celebrated designs. Willy Breitling dreamed up the watch in the early '50s to directly aid pilots in the cockpit. He called it the Navigation Timer, or "Navtimer." The watch featured a rotating slide rule on the bezel that worked in conjunction with the chronograph to make cockpit calculations easier. The watch caught on big-time. It was so popular with aviators that the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association teamed up with Breitling to release a branded design that featured the company's winged crest at 12 o'clock. It was during the '50s that civilian aviation proliferated, and weekend warrior pilots, along with professional and military pilots, all needed a watch. The Breitling Navitimer became commonplace with the aviation set. It was considered a worthy tool.
watch

Scott Carpenter approached Breitling about modifying the Navitimer for 24-hour time for spacefaring applications in the early '60s, and based on the design of the Navitimer, the Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute was born. Beyond professionals like Carpenter, the watch became popular with celebrities like Miles Davis, Serge Gainsbourg, Jim Clark, and Graham Hill, as well.
watch

The crop of 2022 Navitimers retain all the elements from the Navitimers of mid-century years, like the circular slide rule, baton indexes, trio of chronograph counters, and a notched bezel. The most prominent change is inside, with the inclusion of Breitling's COSC-certified Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01. It's a column wheel chronograph that boasts a healthy 70-hour power reserve. There's a new date function, as well, present at the 6 o'clock position
What We Think
The Navitimer ref. 806 1959 Re-Edition released at Baselworld 2019 got collectors excited. It was an accurate re-edition; a proper way to honor a watch with such a strong legacy. It meant that it was only a matter of time before we saw an update to the Navitimer collection.
watch

The slide rule is now flattened out and the crystal domed, which visually creates a more compact profile of the watch. But let's be clear here: Breitling didn't make the cases any smaller. The original Navitimer was executed with a 40mm case. This new Navitimer tops out at 46mm. For those who want to stay as close to the original as possible, the 41mm variant is the closest we're going to get. They all boast the Caliber 01, and they're all water-resistant to 30 meters.
Since there are so many dial choices, case sizes, and metals available, let's break 'em down.
In 46mm
Stainless steel models come with black, blue, and emerald green dials. The single 18k red gold model has a silver and black panda dial.
In 43mm
Stainless steel models come with black, silver, copper, ice blue, and mint green dials. The single 18k red gold model has a black dial with silver registers.
In 41mm
Stainless steel models come with blue, silver, and mint green dials. The single 18k red gold model features a fully silver dial.
Instead of appealing to a highly specific niche, the new Navitimer is casting a wide net. It's an approach that doesn't leave anyone in the cold – except those wishing for a 38mm version of the watch. Breitling is launching the watch with the formation of the Navitimer Squad, an ambassador team of NBA superstar Giannis Antetokounmpo, American Ballet Theater principal dancer Misty Copeland, and aviation pioneer and explorer Bertrand Piccard. Over the past 70 years, the Navitimer sure has come a long way.
If you're familiar with Breitling, then you're most likely familiar with the Navitimer. But for a long time it was positioned as a watch exclusively for pilots and astronauts. With this new line, Breitling is throwing the doors open to anyone. No one uses a slide rule in the cockpit anymore, anyway. This is the Navitimer that's attractive to folks who have never handled an airplane's stick and rudder before. It's less serious and more focused on fun in 2022. I doubt they would have produced a mint green dial for the Navitimer in 1952, but in 2022, it's a good look.


The Basics
Brand: Breitling
Model: Navitimer
Reference Number: AB0137211B1P1, AB0137211B1A1, AB0137211C1P1, AB0137211C1A1, AB0137241L1P1, AB0137241L1A1, RB0137241G1P1 or RB0137241G1R1, AB0138211B1P1, AB0138211B1A1, AB0138241G1P1, AB0138241G1A1, AB0138241K1P1, AB0138241K1A1, AB0138241C1P1, AB0138241C1A1, AB0138241L1P1, or AB0138241L1A1
Diameter: 46mm, 43mm, 41mm
Thickness: 13.96mm, 13.69mm
Case Material: Stainless steel and red gold
Dial Color: Numerous dial colors
Indexes: Applied batons
Lume: Super-Luminova
Water Resistance: 30 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Leather strap
watch


The Movement
Caliber: Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, 1/4th second, 30-minute and 12-hour totalizers
Diameter: 30mm
Thickness: 7.2mm
Power Reserve: 70 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800vph
Jewels: 47
Chronometer Certified: COSC certified

Pricing & Availability
Price: $9,400-$39,500
Availability: From April 2022 onward
Limited Edition: Standard Production
For more, click here.
 

tanwahtiu

Alfrescian
Loyal
Lefties don't wear watches. But do put condom on penis... that's becos both put it in correctly all the time....
 

mixmasternrv

Alfrescian
Loyal
This JLC looks exquisite......

POLARIS
PERPETUAL CALENDAR​

Pink Gold - 42 mm - Automatic, self-winding
ff6244a0fe6286427a36c18c1746013dbf575e66.jpg

but astronomical at SG$65K

 
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